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Fertilizer types and application techniques for flowers
1. Organic Fertilizer: Fertilizers containing large amounts of organic matter are called organic fertilizers, also known as farmyard fertilizers. Organic manure contains a large amount of humus and organic matter, which can provide various nutrient elements for plants; it can increase the effectiveness of insoluble sulfate in soil, reduce the fixation effect of phosphorus on soil, and improve soil fertility and soil structure. Significance. Commonly used organic fertilizer manure, animal excreta, poultry excrement, bone meal, fish meal, lotus root fertilizer, compost, green manure, cake fertilizer, peat, plant ash, fallen leaves, weeds, green manure and so on. The organic fertilizer contains rich organic matter, complete nutrients, and a long pot life. It is worth noting that when using organic fertilizer, it must be fully decomposed. (1) The composting and manure application of heap and manure is based on the use of plant residues such as straw, leaves, weeds, plant wastes, and other wastes as the main raw material, adding human excrement or livestock excrement for accumulation and tanning. Made of. The composting of the compost should create conditions for the microorganisms to decompose and the fermentation temperature is high. The manure is mostly boiled under water and is mainly decomposed by anaphylaxis, and the fermentation temperature is low. The optimum C/N ratio for a typical microbial fermentation is 25:1. Different organics have different C/N ratios and need to be adjusted with appropriate amount of nitrogen fertilizer during fermentation. 3 Carbon-nitrogen ratios of different organic materials Plant materials and fertilizers - Species Carbon-nitrogen ratio (C/N) - Weeds 25-45: Dry straw 67:1 Wood and bark 480:1 Alfalfa and clover 20:1 Ziyun English 10—17.3:1 Sawdust shavings 250:1 high-temperature composting 9.67—10.67:1 General composting 16—20:1—Composting with high organic matter and various nutrient elements in piles and manures is slow and lasting. It is generally used as base fertilizer. Long-term application of heaps and manures can play a role in soil improvement. The amount of fertilizer and fertilizer used in nurseries is usually 750-1500kg/mu. Nitrogen in compost is not sufficient due to the consumption of microorganisms. It is best to apply nitrogen fertilizer after composting. The proportion of various fertilizer materials should be based on the use of fertilizers. For top dressing in the same year, the fertilizer is required to be cooked quickly. Available 50kg grass, add 10-15kg of human waste, 1-2kg of lime, or 2.5-5kg of ash. (NPK content of organic fertilizers is shown in Table 1-4). Such as for the end of the year fertilizer, first dry the grass for 1-2 days, cut into 7-10cm long section, the rags of grass in the bottom of the pit, about 17cm thick, then spread the horse dung, and watering and human waste, the grass All submerged. When the fertilizer is fermented, a layer of black soil is added when the manure water becomes dark green, and then grass, horse dung and water are added. This piled up to the ground in layers and finally watered so that the surface of the pit remained 3cm thick. In the autumn, the good fertilizers will be brought up to the ground, and they will be piled up into piles. Composting is the result of microbial activity. The external conditions affecting microbial activity include moisture, air, temperature, carbon-nitrogen ratio (C/N) of the compost material, and the pH of the environment in which the microorganisms are located. As long as the conditions required for microbial activity are met, compost can be decomposed. Plant residues need to be soaked prior to composting. Moisture is very important in the composting process. Usually the moisture content is 60-70% of the dry material, which is conducive to the life of microbes in the heap and the softening of organic materials. It can also promote compost composting. Usually the material is squeezed out of the water by hand, indicating that the water is moderate. If aeration is good in a heap, aerobic microorganisms are strongly active. It is beneficial to the composting of microorganisms; when the conditions of the aeration are poor, the anaerobic microorganisms are active, the organic matter is decomposed slowly, the release of effective nutrients is small, and the composting period is long, but it is conducive to the formation and accumulation of humus. Therefore, the two can be combined; the early stage of composting is based on aerobics, which rapidly decomposes the compost and releases nutrients, while the mid-to-late compost is in a non-circulating state to preserve the released nutrients and promote the accumulation of humus. The method is: in the early stage of composting, the compost can be ventilated by setting up ventilation towers, ventilation ditch, or loose accumulation methods. When the compost is decomposed, the compost naturally collapses. Then, the mud is compacted and the ventilation tower and other facilities are removed to reduce the air flow in the fertilizer heap. During composting in composting, the temperature in the heap changes with the decomposition of organic matter, and it enters high temperatures from low temperature to medium temperature. The temperature required for high-temperature fiber-decomposing bacteria is 50-60°C, which is a good thermal microorganism. During composting in winter, an appropriate amount of horse dung can be added to the compost material, and the heat generated by the high-temperature fiber-decomposing bacteria contained therein can be used to increase the compost temperature, or the heap can be used to close the mud to reduce the heat at any time and accelerate compost maturity. Microbial activity requires carbon as an energy source and requires nitrogen as a material for building cells. The activity and reproduction of microorganisms requires a certain ratio of carbon and nitrogen (C/N), generally less than 25:1. If the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio in compost afforestation is greater than 25:1, the microorganisms cannot multiply, and the organic residues are decomposed slowly. The microorganisms will absorb inorganic nitrogen from the external environment. If the carbon-nitrogen ratio of the organic matter is less than 25:1, the microorganisms multiply quickly, and the organic residues are depressed. In order to accelerate microbial activity and promote compost maturity, manure or other nitrogenous fertilizers may be added to the compost to regulate the carbon to nitrogen ratio required by the microorganisms. During the composting process, the decomposition of organic matter produces a large amount of organic acids, which makes the environment acidic and affects the life activities of microorganisms. Because microorganisms are generally suitable for living in a neutral or slightly acidic environment, alkaline substances such as lime or plant ash or calcareous soil should be added to the compost to adjust the pH of the compost. There are two kinds of common compost and high-temperature compost. The former has a low fermentation temperature, and the latter must be fermented at high temperatures. First, ordinary compost: suitable for areas with high temperatures and heavy rainfall or seasons. The compost should be chosen where the terrain is flat and close to the water source. The pile is 2 meters wide and 1.5-2 meters tall. The length of the pile depends on the material. Before the stacking, the ground shall be compacted and leveled, covered with a layer of turf soil or peat to absorb the infiltrated fertilizer solution, and then evenly litter branches, weeds, garbage, etc., splashing people, animal waste And sewage and so on. Each layer of about 15-26cm thickness of the top layer of a layer of fine soil or river mud to reduce the evaporation of water and ammonia volatilization. Pile up for about 1 month, turn it over once, and add some water. It is hot and rainy in summer, composting for about 2 months, turning once, and it takes 3-4 months in winter to decompose. Second, high-temperature composting High-temperature composting is a major method for the harmless treatment of organic matter. Human fecal urine, deciduous trees, weeds, mixed dry plants, various straws, etc., after high-temperature treatment, can eliminate potential pathogens, eggs and grass seeds. It is conducive to environmental health and human and livestock health. In order to accelerate the decomposition of weeds and leaves, the temperature of the heap is increased. High-temperature compost must be added to horse manure, and the hot, high-temperature fiber-decomposing bacteria in horse dung should be used to promote the decomposition of plant residues. If the high-temperature compost is semi-pit type, the decomposition will be quick and full, and there will be less loss of nutrients. The method is: Choose the place where the back yin and high dry, close to the water source do the fertilizer farm. Digging pits on the ground, if the plant material is counted as 0.5 tons, the pit is 1 meter deep, and the excavated soil surrounds the pit and forms a circle of soil. The bottom of the pit is levelled, and a cross ditch is dug. The depth and width of the ditch are 20cm. Both sides of the ditch are dug up along the edges, and the earthworms are dug up and the outer outlet is horn-shaped. The bottom of the pit is covered with two short branches, and a straw or branch of the pit is used as a ventilation tower. Then plant the plant material to step up, add a layer of fine soil, splash lime water, sprinkle a manure, and then throw the manure. Then it was paved again with a layer of material that was layered about 30cm above the pit surface, covered with a layer of soil and about 3cm thick, so that the fertilizer piled into a bow-shaped shape. After 1-2 days, make it fully ventilated, and finally use river mud, pond mud, etc. to cap. The above two types of compost are traditional fertilizer methods for crops. It is characterized by rich and comprehensive nutrient content. High-temperature compost has bactericidal and insecticidal effects. The production of cultured soil and rotted leaves commonly used in flower production is similar to composting. They also use plant materials such as fallen leaves and fallen flowers, and pour on human feces to dilute the plant residues. The difference is that the rot-leaf soil must be filled with a considerable amount of garden soil. The decomposing time is long, there is no high-temperature fermentation process, and it cannot exterminate and sterilize, often causing the bacteria and eggs to lurk in the culture soil or rot leaf soil, causing the new plant to infect. Virus or twin pests. (2) Application of mud fertilizer The fertile silt in rivers, ponds, ditch, and lakes is collectively referred to as mud. It is composed of fine soil, dirt, litter, etc. brought together by wind and rain at the bottom of rivers, ravines, ponds, and lakes, together with the excretions and remains of aquatic animals, and the remnants of aquatic plants. . These substances form mud by the decomposition of long-term anaerobic microorganisms. Different mud fertilizers have different fertilizer effects. If the muddy water surface is dark green and smells odor, there are many honeycomb holes in the mud, and the traces of the stems and leaves of the plants are not clearly visible. The lighter fertilizer effect is higher; on the contrary, if the water surface is clear, the mud blocks excavated are gray in color and compact in structure. The fertilizer efficiency of honeycomb holes is poor, (see Table 1-5). Mud fertilizer is a cool fertilizer with long and stable fertilizer effect. In order to rapidly transform and eliminate the reducing toxic substances produced by long-term turbidity due to flooding, fertilizers should be spread out before fertilization, air-dried for a period of time, and then shredded and applied. Nursery use mud as a base fertilizer for a large amount, it can not only supply nutrients to seedlings, but also thicken the soil tillage, improve soil physical and chemical properties. Formulating cultured soil with mud fertilizer has good effect on planting flowers. First spread the peat to the open ground. After a little drying, cut into pieces of mud of 1cm in size and plunge into the ash about 1/5. Use this soil to plant white orchids, jasmine and other flowers.